One of the biggest transformations occurred in the kitchen. I loved the custom built cabinets, but there was only one. I also loved the idea of converting the “indoor/outdoor utility room” to be fully enclosed so that I could add a dishwasher to modernize the space. It was a big job, but here is what was done:
Demo: removed all pine tongue and groove slat walls, relocated back door from its current spot and removed half window, used Craigslist to dispose of all old appliances, reconfigure stainless counter top to fit a modern sink
Here is what I started with; in this photo you can see the slat walls, the back door in its current location and the lack of an additional upper cabinet:
Now that the sanding is done as seen here in my prior post http://agirlcandoit.com/2011/05/09/how-to-refinish-hardwood-floors/ the floors are ready to apply the new finish. For hardwoods, I recommend a stain and 3 coats of polyurethane. I chose MinWax’s oil based stain in Jacobean, which is a dark brownish black color like coffee beans. I chose the darker color not only for aesthetic purposes, but as I discovered, it hides imperfections in the floors very well.
In small spaces, I recommend using a brush. but in the larger areas, the stain is applied easily with a paint roller and an extension pole. Here you can see how it hides all the imperfections and repairs made to the original hardwoods very well. When patching wood to be sealed, make sure you get the wood filler that says “paintable AND stainable”.
The stain will be “tacky” to the touch for several hours. You don’t want to proceed to sealing until the stain is completely dry which typically takes at least 24 hours if not slightly more, especially in humid conditions.
Once the stain is completely dry, you can proceed to sealing. Minwax makes a Polyurethane for Floors; I chose a satin finish which will look shiny when wet as you can see in the below photo but dries to a nice subdued finish. It applies easily with a lambswool applicator attached to a painters pole. After about 4 hours, the manufacturers label says that you can reapply a 2nd coat without sanding in between. If you wait to let the first coat dry, you should plan to sand the area with a fine grit sandpaper and remove all sanding dust before proceeding. In this case, I opted to reapply the 2nd and 3rd coats so that I could eliminate the sanding. A word of warning here and that is to wear a face mask meant to block odors because this stuff is very noxious! Allow at least 48 hours before walking on the surface.
The finished look:
Continuing my series of portfolio pictures of what was accomplished at the 1920′s duplex, one of the major transformations occurred in the bathroom. Everything was white: original hexagonal tile, white shower, white paint and white sink and white tongue and groove plank wood walls. I struggled initially with the emotional decision as to whether I should retain some of the original elements for historical purposes but I decided it was best for rental value, and considering what was there was in bad shape, to go ahead and modernize the space a bit.
Here’s what was done to transform this room: 1) All fixtures and finishes were removed except the medicine cabinet and tile 2) new travertine tile was installed directly over the old tile 3) new toilet, vanity, lighting and fixtures 4) had a plumber help to replace old galvanized pipes in walls and under foundation for new shower 5) installed new step in shower pan, backboard and tile for shower 6) instead of going back with mini-blinds, I used a frosted window film that I found that gives privacy yet lets the natural light shine in uncluttered.
Details: wall paint color-Mushroom Bisque, oil rubbed bronze fixtures by Danze, Medicine cabinet and shower trims painted Espresso brown, shower tile is a combo of blanco tumbled marble and a glass mosaic I found at Lowe’s
I am finally finished with the 1920′s duplex, at least one of the two units anyway!! This will be the first of a series of posts just showing the makeover, before and after and sometimes during progress. Hopefully you will agree that the changes are amazing, and in most cases, very little to do yourself if something you see sparks your creativity! This project has taken a lot longer than expected, given my time availability and other factors. Renovating an older home has many twists and turns that can be unexpected, but I have enjoyed every minute of it.
The bedroom, like other rooms in the unit showed many signs of settlement with cracks above almost every door and window. The home has a pier and beam foundation with a brick ledge around the perimeter which all had to be leveled and repaired. This allowed me to make the crack repairs inside. In the bedroom alone, there are six lovely windows that allow A LOT of natural light to enter so I definitely did not want ugly cracks to detract from that beauty. The bedroom also had an area on the wood floor that had been damaged either by a prior roof leak or heavy object that was dropped. I was able to cut the damage out and match the hardwood. In older homes like this, all of the walls, interior and exterior are actually tongue and groove wood and over time sheetrock installed over the wood. Pretty much, you can install a picture anywhere without having to wonder if you hit a stud!
Bedroom (After): Paint, new blinds, windows, doors and trims painted, new fan and outlets/switches with stainless covers, refinished hardwoods with a repair area and all door and window settlement cracks repaired
Paint color: Home Depot’s Behr Paint and Primer in One- Mushroom Bisque
Floors stained: Minwax Jacobean with a satin Polyurethane for Floors